From sniffing parties to eau-inspired vacations, perfume is more than just a daily spritz for a new breed of fragrance fanatics—it's an art. And, in some cases, a full-blown obsession.

By Maggie Bullock

It’s not hard to come up with a reason to linger at the Four Seasons Resort on Maui’s Wailea Beach: white sand fine as face powder; poolside mango smoothies; and the occasional sight of Pierce Brosnan gliding to shore on a paddleboard with mesmerizing precision. Still, some people who come here couldn’t care less about such frivolous distractions. They’re here for the scent. Not in the naturewalk sense, either—they come specifically to inhale the sandalwood, maile vine, and jasmine in Palena’ole, a custom-blend eau that hovers in an all but subliminal nimbus around the entire property. (The local breezes, though lovely, smell primarily of nice, plain beach air; the hotel augments Mother Nature with discreetly hidden electronic diffusers.)

Jane Hendler, cofounder of the Carmel, California, niche perfumery Ajne Rare and Precious, and the creator of Palena’ole, says flying halfway across the Pacific (or farther) just to experience a fragrance isn’t all that strange. Not among her devotees. “One of our clients has a spray for her pillow and one for her sheets, perfumes for each of the seasons, and a minifridge in her bathroom in which to store them, so they feel cool on her skin,” Hendler says. “But that’s nothing. One man told us he had a dedicated fragrance room with more than 1,000 bottles. Another customer buys a new bottle of our Savoir—that’s $180—once a month. I’m not complaining, but it’s, like, what, are you drinking it?”

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